However at the same time we have to remember we need to actually paddle the boat, that is we need enough movement to be able to produce a n effective paddle stroke, in order to drive the boat forward. So while we need that snug fit to accurately edge, lean and steer we also want free movement to paddle effectively – it is a compromise<\/em>.\u00a0 You decide on that level of compromise.<\/p>\n And of course we also need enough room for the comfort required on longer trips and for colder weather clothing. There’s a bit of an art to getting it right. But it is worth the effort: without good padding you are only paddling half a Taran.<\/p>\n NOTE:\u00a0 This is a quick look at how I pad my boats – everyone does it differently. This is a starting point to work from but you should tailor the fit for your specific needs<\/em>. Before you start make sure your boat is clean and completely dry. Wipe it down first and then allow it to dry fully. Don’t skimp on materials or adhesives, the soggy, sweaty cockpit area is a testing environment! Use a non-water based contact adhesive; in the UK the brand name to use is Evo-stik. There is nothing better for this job.<\/p>\n I use a quality high-density black foam, this foam does not absorb water and does not deform or compress over time.\u00a0 It also bonds well with the contact adhesive. These are all important characteristics for a decent padding setup. You want a foam rigid enough to transfer your handling inputs but at the same time provides adequate comfort.<\/p>\n I use: Steer clear of Ethafoam, sleeping mat foam, or the grey foam used in pillar buoyancy – variously between them they deform, compress, hold water or have poor bonding characteristics with the contact adhesive. Don’t waste your time with these – they won’t cut the mustard for serious paddling.<\/p>\n I remove the footrests to gain access to the areas behind where the rudder cables route. It makes life a little easier and saves the rudder cables getting a coating of any stray adhesive. If you have a Smarttrack system fitted, use a large (#3) Phillips screwdriver to remove the footrest machine screws- don’t use a Pozi Drive screwdriver as you may damage the heads.<\/p>\n Of course if you use adhesives, solvents, sharp tools etc then you need to take the relevant safety precautions with regards to ventilation, fire hazards, personal protective equipment and so on, blah…<\/p>\n Pre-bend the thighs pads to roughly match the contours of the deck and thigh bar. Then starting at the centre of the pad and working outwards, press the pad firmly into place under the thigh bars. Beware: with contact adhesive you only get one shot at this. Make sure you place it accurately and press into place uniformly! It gets messy if you need a second attempt.<\/p>\n This is the same drill as previously, just on the rear edge of the seat.<\/p>\n
\n(The seat shown here may be a little different to the one fitted in your boat, but the principal is the same.)<\/p>\nPreparation:<\/h5>\n
\nIf you fit out your boat correctly it should last the lifetime of the boat, with minimal maintenance.<\/p>\nAdhesive:<\/h5>\n
Foam:<\/h5>\n
\n6 mm for the rear pad
\n10 mm for the thigh pads
\n17 mm (or greater) for the hip pads<\/p>\nFootrest:<\/h5>\n
Safety:<\/h5>\n
Tools ‘n’ stuff:<\/h5>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.performanceseakayak.co.uk\/Archive\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/P5190025-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a><\/a>Before:<\/h5>\n
<\/a><\/a>Footrests:<\/h5>\n
<\/a><\/a><\/a>Thigh Bars:<\/h5>\n
<\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a>Refit the footrests:<\/h5>\n
<\/a><\/a><\/a>Seat – Hip Blocks:<\/h5>\n
<\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a>Seat – Rear edge:<\/h5>\n
<\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>Job Done:<\/h5>\n
<\/a><\/p>\n