- \n
- \n
- \n
- Weight<\/li>\n
- Drag<\/li>\n
- Handling<\/li>\n
- Aesthetics<\/li>\n
- Cost<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
To look at those downsides in detail, let’s apply them to the Taran:<\/p>\n
Weight<\/em> – A keel-strip adds weight – for a composite one you can probably expect a weight penalty of around 3\/4 – 1 kg when fitted to a Taran. Perhaps not too significant for a 25+ kg sea kayak, however if you opt for a lightweight Premier construction boat then you are undoing some of that weight-advantage by adding a keel-strip.<\/p>\n
Drag<\/em> – at a guess the cross-sectional area of a composite keel strip is going to be roughly around 55-60 mm x 3-4 mm. That’s a significant change to add to the hull of a kayak. But of course the keel-strip is faired at the ends of the boat so you don’t get the full cross-sectional area ‘square-on’ to the flow. It will add drag, but how much?<\/p>\n
The added drag added also depends on the overall surface area of the keel-strip, the quality of the surface finish (especially along the edges) and the positioning on the hull.<\/p>\n
Whether this drag is meaningful (or even noticeable) for the average paddler is up for debate. The significance of the drag depends on many factors: paddler, speed, boat design, the paddling environment and of course the skills of the person who fits the strip.<\/p>\n
If you are worried about a keel-strip adding drag to your hull, then I would say that paddling (and man-handling) the boat in a way that prevents adding scratches to the hull is a better starting point. Paddle to keep your boat shiny and smooth! (Though you could argue that a keel strip does just that to an extent.)<\/p>\n
Handling<\/em> – a keel-strip will flatten the profile of a sharp-V keel hull, and add an ‘edge’ along a flat hull.<\/p>\n
The centre section hull of a Taran is flat. This is deliberate and for a number of reasons –\u00a0 some of them handling. Adding a ‘bump’ along that section may affect the handling. But to be honest I don’t really know by how much, and once again, whether this is significant to the average paddler. I think any changes would be slight at most, but we would need to do detailed testing to find out.<\/p>\n
In the meantime I figure it was designed to perform best without, so I’m going to stick with that.<\/p>\n
Aesthetics<\/i> – A good keel-strip (especially in a contrasting colour) can add definition, or a striking look, to an otherwise uniform hull. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder of course – some people love a keel-strip, others hate them. It’s your call on this one.<\/p>\n
Cost<\/em> – whether you fit it yourself or pay someone else to do it, money is going to be involved somewhere.<\/p>\n
the Taran Design<\/h5>\n
However we haven’t taken a look at the elephant in the room yet:\u00a0 the fact that for much of the hull-length the Taran doesn’t have an obvious keel. Agreed it is sharply ‘V-ed’ at bow and stern, but the centre section is flat as mentioned. There is no centreline keel at all for much of the hull.<\/p>\n
So do you gain by adding a keel-strip to protect a keel that isn’t there?<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.performanceseakayak.co.uk\/Archive\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/PA251135-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>The Taran flat-hull<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n The Taran Concept<\/h5>\n
For me the biggest thing against a Taran keel-strip is just the basic concept of adding additional protection to the hull of an adavance\/performance sea kayak. It implies that you are going to regularly scrape the hull. I think an advanced sea kayak should be matched with advanced paddling really.<\/p>\n
If you need a keel-strip to protect the hull then you are paddling the boat in way other than what it was designed for. The Taran is an has a long-waterline and a limited amount of hull rocker. It isn’t really designed for grinding up and down beaches or slipways. It is was designed to be paddled differently, with a little class. Treat the boat well and it will look after you.<\/p>\n
If you paddle regularly in a hard environment then fair enough fit a keel-strip. But most of us don’t do that, with a little effort you can look after a hull pretty easily.<\/p>\n
If you just grind the boat up and down the beach without good reason then, without being rude, perhaps you need to take a look at your paddling and boat handling. Or maybe the Taran is just not the correct choice of design for you.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.performanceseakayak.co.uk\/Archive\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/P1090582-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>You may want to adjust your paddling habits<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.performanceseakayak.co.uk\/Archive\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/P5030025-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>Avoiding scratches<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n Alternatives<\/h5>\n
There are other options than a full keel-strip, maybe add shorter bow and stern ‘guards’?<\/p>\n
My expedition boat has a Kevlar bow guard and a short Diolen keel-strip at the rear. These were fitted for a long distance solo expedition where I suspected that the loaded boat would get some rough man-handling here and there, even with the best of intentions. Meanwhile they add minimum weight and drag.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.performanceseakayak.co.uk\/Archive\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/P2200897-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>A well worn, chunky bow-guard.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.performanceseakayak.co.uk\/Archive\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/P2200895-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>A battle-scarred short stern strip.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.performanceseakayak.co.uk\/Archive\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/P7034228-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>‘Lightweight’ bow-guard<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.performanceseakayak.co.uk\/Archive\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/P7034226-scaled.jpg\")
<\/a>Shorter stern guard\u00a0 skid-plate<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n The other boat has a bow guard and a short stern skid-plate. These were fitted for when the boat is used to run tidal bores: bow impact is possible here and short muddy drags are necessary now and then to get to the water, hence the stern skid-plate.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The Taran Keel-Strip<\/h5>\n
At the end of the day it is your boat, you paid for it, and you can (and should) do whatever you want with it.<\/p>\n
If you want to fit a keel-strip then go right ahead. Paddle and enjoy!\u00a0Let me know how you get on; I may be wrong about them.<\/p>\n
But in the meantime I’ll be keeping my Taran keel-strip free.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
John Willacy<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n